Day One: with Peter Boardman, friend of Chung's, down in Cape Cod. Really cool, got up for 2 seconds.
Day Two: with Steve Zelman, friend from LA, again in Cape Cod. Scary 4-8 foot waves. Getting pounded was NOT fun. No, I didn't even make it up.
Day Three: with Paul Sullam, Haleiwa, famed and beautiful surf spot in the North Shore. I finally rode a wave and it was the thrill of my life!!!!!!
Day Four: Barber's Point. Beautiful beautiful beach. Monk seal swam by. I got into the water too late. No dice.
Day Five: with Paul, again, this time at Secrets. I thought I was pretty much gonna die on the coral. No up.
Day Six: with Paul at Queen's, next to Waikiki. Still coral, but not as threatening. Still no up.
Day Seven: with Paul at Queen's, again. Two perfect waves, but actually ended up right behind two other guys. I was basically boogie boarding on a surfboard.
Scored a free 8 ft surfboard yesterday when I was at Electric Beach. Basically I found this guy on Craigslist, and he wanted to sell me this board for $60. It was brown, and handsome, very retro, but it was CLEARLY well used. My friend said NO WAY and said, offer him $10. I said no thanks, so he said, "Just keep it then", in a huff. So that is how I scored my first surfboard, completely free. By the way, it doesn't have any skegs. But I found a leash at Waikiki. So I think I will be in business soon....
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