I was out with Sherry and a couple of her friends out on the waves. We were right across the street from where I was staying, and there was a storm coming in from Australia. The waves were coming in pretty slow, but they were big. Probably 2 footers, although they felt more like 4 footers. I was out there for a while, paddling, just trying to catch the right one. Then I hit it. "C'mon Sherry!" I yelled, as loud as I could, adrenaline starting to pump through my veins. We started paddling as hard as we could. Me, on my 9 foot longboard, probably about 20 years old, fiberglass busting out, compliments of craigslist. (And they said I couldn't do it.) Man, that wave was so sweet. I dropped down into it. And I surfed the heck out it. Words can't really describe the sensation of dropping into a really sweet wave, you just feel it. And yes, you feel like you are on top of the world.
I didn't catch any more good waves that day, but I will remember those moments forever. I am itching to tackle some East Coast waves now that I am here, but Hawai'i, that is the true home and birthplace of surf.
No comments:
Post a Comment